Travesía Panamericana
Week 3
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Central Mexico
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April 22, 2002
Durango, Dgo. Mexico Odometer: 199,587 Written by: Cris The arrangement at the Hotel Campo Mexico worked great; they let us park the camper next to one of their comfortable bungalow style room and gave us a key so we could use its restroom. We had the whole place for ourselves, with the exception of a few other guests, so we spent a very comfortable time in this open area conveniently located close to downtown Durango. Today was a bit different to our days so far. We spent most of the morning doing errands including writing Week 2 reports, downloading photos, and organizing the interior of the Westfalia, something badly needed. The afternoon went by with two hours in the Internet café doing e-mail and updating the web site, and doing some groceries (the latter included a little misunderstanding that made us lost contact from each other for about an hour. This made us think about having some sort of plan "B" in case we lose track of each other again). Durango is a nice city, full of activity and home of a University. The colonial architecture legacy from central Mexico starts to show up here, mainly in it's impressive cathedral and churches--lots of churches. By late afternoon we were on the road again, heading south to Zacatecas, a place that both of us were anxious to visit for its renowned architectural qualities.
April 23, 2002 Zacatecas, Zacatecas. Mexico Odometer: 199,769 Written by: Both Last night we tried the "Pemex Solution" for the first time, with wonderful results. Pemex
is the Mexican state-owned oil company (Petróleos de México), which has the monopoly of all the gas stations in the country.
Gasoline and diesel prices are uniform throughout Mexico, with the exception of some remote areas where it is slightly
higher. Currently, a liter of diesel is 4.72 pesos (9 pesos is one U$D), which puts the cost of a gallon at about U$D 2.00.
Not too bad. Anyway, the "Pemex Solution" consists, as suggested by the excellent book Traveler's Guide To Mexican Camping by Mike and Terry Church (which we fully recommend for a trip by automobile through Mexico), on asking the attendant at a
big 24 hr Pemex station (preferably after filling the tank there) for a spot to park your camper for the night. It worked
like a charm for us last night in the outskirts of Zacatecas. Having Chance sleeping outside of the camper added to the sense
of security. Both Barbara and myself prefer saving the hotel money in some cases, but we should be careful and balance that
with the safety factor. So far, Mexico has felt very safe. More than half of the cars on the road are newer and a lot
more expensive and cleaner than our old Westfalia, so we dont need to worry about calling too much attention anyway. While walking in Zacatecas, we bumped into a split window VW bus by chance, one of the
last 3 remaining in the whole city, according to the owner (see photo above). We spent all of today walking the magnificent downtown Zacatecas and visiting some of
the main buildings from it's colonial past: -The Cathedral, an impressive construction in Mexican baroque style. -The museum Rafael Coronel, which has one of the biggest mask collection in Mexico and
is located in an ex-Jesuit convent that is one of the nicest buildings that we've been so far, elegantly and tastefully restored
and landscaped. We learned about the importance of masks in Mexican culture from the pre-Hispanic period to the present. We
never thought much about masks, but seeing the variety, craftsmanship, and multiplicity of uses of masks throughout the country's
history changed our views. For instance, masks were used for religious, celebratory, didactic, and political purposes during
different periods and regions of Mexico. We saw dozens of masks representing the devil, animals, monsters, and folk characters,
each of them fascinating in their colors, shapes, and mystery. -El Eden mine, now open to tourism, and once the site of
both wealth creation and exploitation in this part of Mexico, starting in the XVI century. According to the guide,
miners regularly died of tuberculosis and silicosis in this place, living to an average of only 35 years old, if they did
not died in an accident before. Children were also employed in the mine. The wealth and grandiose buildings of Zacatecas were
a byproduct of the mining industry. The guide also explained that miners were usually indentured for life, and that their
children inherited the debt to the mine owners. The ultimate destiny of much of the mine silver and oher metals during colonial
times was Spain. That afternoon, we drove to San Felipe town, just before the next heavy weights: Guanajuato
and San Miguel de Allende.
April 24, 2002 San Felipe, Guanajuato. Mexico Odometer: 199,943 Written by: Cris San Felipe was a wonderful location for a
stop over. We stayed at the tiny hotel across the main plaza. Our room had a balcony with view of the plaza and our camper
parked next to it. Chance slept in the balcony, it took some work to convince the hotel owner to let the dog in, I had to
explain that there were no pulgas (fleas) or barking involved. Both in the evening and morning the birds in the plaza
were uncharacteristically loud, to a point where we had to raise our voices to have a conversation! After our now traditional on-board breakfast of French press coffee, toasts and fruit,
we headed south to the famous city of Guanajuato, one of the finest examples of colonial architecture in the continent. On a busy commercial street on our way out of San Felipe we noticed a pick-up truck with
a camper shell backing up against us in a rather fast manner. Considering the sometimes chaotic nature of Mexican streets,
we didn´t pay too much attention to this at first, thinking that whoever was at the wheel would see us coming and avoid us.
Well, the truck kept coming directly against us, crossing the street in a diagonal and very fast by now. We barely missed
it (by no more than 3 feet) and when we looked back noticed that there was no driver, it had been parked with no gear or hand
brake engaged and was going down the street at least 25 mph! Amazingly, it missed the many buses, cars, bicycles, dogs, and
pedestrians that were circulating in both directions and ended up in a ramp about half a block away on the opposite side of
the street without even hitting a curb. We laughed thinking about the drivers face when he/she came out to look for the vehicle
and found it in a completely different location and with one wheel hanging up in the air!
Once in Guanajuato the narrow streets were extremely busy, but traffic flowed remarkably
well given the complicated system of medieval-like streets and long tunnels in a city that evolved following a river's
curves and was not designed with automobiles in mind. In our usual reconnaissance
drive we observed school kids jumping on to the rear bumpers of automobiles in order to get a ride, with no asking involved.
Drivers didn't seem to matter.
While resting under the shade of the trees of one of the many plazas, we talked with a
couple of older locals, who told us a bit about the citys history and present. According to them, Guanajuato ranks among the
nicest cities in the world, together with Brujas in Belgium and Toledo in Spain. They also mentioned that the tunnels, despite
their old appearance, were built not more than 30 years ago, in order to ease traffic congestion.
April 25th, 2002 San Miguel de Allende, GTO, Mexico Odometer: 200,079 Written by: Barbara We woke up at the Mirador of San Miguel de Allende not the Mirador Hotel, but the parking
lot of a hill that has one of the best views in town. San Miguel is another remarkably beautiful colonial town and great to
walk. And that's what we did for most part of the day: we walked the laberintic streets appreciating the colors and designs
of the houses and other buildings, spying the inviting courtyards through open doors or windows, and watching the diversity
of people that populates San Miguel's streets, from mestizos, indigenous people in traditional clothes, tourists with their
shorts, funny packs or backpacks, and Americans who migrated to San Miguel de Allende. Apparently many Americans chose this
place to retire, so it was not surprising to see many cars with United States license plates, many more than in other parts
of Mexico. There's even an American consulate there, which is significant given that San Miguel is a relatively small town.
We also visited the Cathedral, the main plaza (El Jardin) where lots of people meet, chat, and relax; the lush Benito
Juarez Park (where people go exercising early in the morning or hang out under the shade of the trees when the sun blazes);
the Lavanderia, where local women do the laundry by hand; and the Centro Cultural El Nigromante, which offers
a variety of artistic activities and has a nice coffee place in the cool courtyard . Every corner of San Miguel was photo-worthy.
We could not resist staying one more night.
April 26-28th, 2002 San Juan del Rio, Queretaro, Mexico. Odometer: 200,238 Written by: Barbara
On April 26th we headed to San Juan del Rio, Queretaro, in the hope of visiting
our friend Doña Elena, who is a relative of our Mexican friends Nora and Marcos (she is Nora's mom). When we left Eugene we
were not sure yet of exactly which routes we were going to take, so we did not know whether we would be able to go through
San Juan del Rio. Doña Elena knew through Nora that our visit was a possibility, but because it took us longer to get there
than expected, she thought that we were not going to go after all. When we arrived at her house by surprise the morning of
the 26th, her face of awe and happiness seemed to be taken directly out of film with happy ending. She hugged us once, and
again, and again, laughing, and exclaiming that she could not believe we really were there, hugging us once more as if the
physical contact made our presence more real. Such warm reaction made us feel extremely welcome and even more excited to be
there. From then on a series of parties, family gatherings, and culinary feasts followed. Doña Elena seemed to be determined
to not let us leave San Juan del Rio without having tried every Mexican food specialty: in a few days we tried Pozole,
chilaquiles, pies made from vegetables that were new for us (like Chayote), carnitas, all
kinds of quesadillas and dishes with black beans; and many other delicious dishes. In addition, a casual mention
to Mireya (Doña Elena's daughter in law) that Cris loved milanesas (breaded steaks), shortly translated in a full
load of them that same day. During our stay in San Juan del Rio we met Doña Elena's numerous family, neighbors and friends.
People were continually coming in and out of the house, especially women with their children who would drop by to say hi,
to help with domestic chores, or to chat around the table while rinsing beans, chopping vegetables, or simply relaxing. We
very much enjoyed the company and care of Doña Elena's family and friends, who made us feel at home in countless ways (to
mention just a few examples, Elena gave us flowers from her flower shop, Chabela brought fresh fruit from her vegetable stand
in the local market, Luz Ma helped us do the laundry and cooked for us many times, Narno and his coworkers washed our
camper at the family's lube shop; Mireya and Doña Elena were constantly looking after our needs; Leticia and Marta also kept
us in good company; the children made us drawings, and almost every person who entered that house did something to make our
stay in San Juan deeply enjoyable.
On Sunday we went to visit two exciting places with Doña Elena, her son Narno, daughter
in law Mireya, and two grandchildren Coco and Leo. First we visited the Peña
de Bernal, a sort of mountain made of bare rock with a pyramid shape which is visited by people with different purposes such
as rock climbers, hikers, and other people with their families who just want to enjoy the view. The Peña is quite beautiful,
and the hike up can be particularly strenuous if done around noon. We did not get to the top because it was very hot and we
did not carry enough water for the journey. Interestingly, we saw many people who were going up with almost no water, some
women with high heels, and many children, and they seemed to be having no problem. I certainly know I would not have resisted
the hike unless I was more prepared. I was already thirsty by the time we did about one quarter of the way! Fortunately, Doña Elena and Mireya had prepared a cooler full of fresh fruit and water, which we
enjoyed under the shade of a tree. Afterwards we visited the small, but picturesque center of Bernal, and then on our way
back we stopped at Tequisquiapan, another attractive town, with lots of activity in the main plaza area: booths with crafts,
food, a band playing in front of the church, balloon vendors, and children riding kartings all over the place. At the
risk of sounding like a commercial, I should say that it was a wonderful day!
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